One of the first things I do, when I come to a new place is looking for
opportunities to play. We met a lot of sailors in the San Blas that came
from Cartagena that gave us some information about the situation with live
music. We were here five years ago, and at that time I had regular
performances in a place called ‘El Bar’.
I have to meet John, a colleague sailor and a fine trumpet-player, so I’ve
heard. And I have to visit ‘la Comarca’, a bar for the Colombian cultural
elite where John plays in the weekends.
We were not completely uninformed about what to expect in Cartagena.
This morning I discovered that I just missed John, the trumpet-player. He
left the day before we anchored in the bay. I can only act as his follow
up, playing together postponed.
We walked around the old town at 20.00 hours. We tried to figure out if
‘the Bar’ was still there. No, changed in a high-couture shop. If Bruno was
still living in ‘Bodegon de la Candelaria’. No, not there. We jumped in a
restaurant called ‘Bongo’s’ because they had Stan Getz recordings. Made
some small talk with the owner. I promised him to pass by next Friday to
give a small demonstration of my musical act. The place was completely
empty when we entered and when we left it still was empty.
The restaurants we passed by didn’t have live music, except one. Prices of
the food varied from 14.000 to 30.000 pesos for the main dish (7 to 15 $
US). Wine is very expensive, easy 50.000 a bottle (25$ US).
We entered Comarca around 21.00 hours, and realized that it was the sama as
the Nautical Antique shop of 5 years ago. The place was packed with bronze,
but almost no people. It was much too early for night-life. That would
start around 23.30 hours. This was in stark contrast with our natural
rhythm of going to bed at 22.00 hours to get up around 6.00 in the morning.
We ordered a beer. Not cheap, more on the expensive site for Cartagena
(5000 pesos, about 2.50$ US). I listened a bit to the music of a guy
singing bolero’s and some other Latin songs and playing the guitar. Almost
everybody that was there knew the songs. Except me, of course.
Most of the songs were slow, not too complex in harmony or melody. Probably
most in E, what for a B-flat instrument will be in the awkward key of
F-sharp. Never mind. At least I can practice the ‘nasty keys’ again. I
thought I could add something to the music.
In the break I talked to Libardo, the musician (for sure I got his name
wrong). Yes, he played with John, too bad he was gone. And where was my
sax? I told him I would bring my sax with me next time I would come. I was
introduced to Alvaro, one of the owners of the Comarca. A very charming and
elegant guy. He made sure I would come on Friday night. We stayed a bit
longer, walked and rowed to the boat and went very tired immediately to bed.
Two musical appointments the first night. time well spend.
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